An Ayurvedic Guide To Wheatish Skin Complexion

It has been a long journey for the beauty and wellness industry to think beyond the quintessential ‘fair skin’ paradigm. Times have changed, and so has the idea of beauty. Most of the skincare and makeup brands, including ayurvedic brands are now beginning to cater products specifically for melanin-rich skin, identifying that its needs are not similar to fair skin.

It is now understood that healthy radiant skin is more important than fair skin. Dr. Zeel Gandhi, Chief Ayurvedic Doctor at Vedix, says “Skin colour is determined by (Vansha) genes and (Desha) geographical location. But Prabha - Radiant complexion is an indicator of good health and can be achieved by all. The key is to understand your skin’s unique identity and ways to keep it healthy.”

We bring the much-needed focus on addressing different skin types and tones, including wheatish skin complexion. Scroll down to know everything about wheatish skin type and the ayurvedic approach to look after it for a glowing, blemish-free complexion.

What Is Wheatish Complexion?

Indian skin tone, specifically referred to as brown or wheatish skin tone, is highly prevalent in the Indian subcontinent. A lighter shade of brown skin colour, wheatish skin isn’t too dark or too fair. The word is coined from the wheat grain, which has a specific shade that lies between pearl white and brown.

Your normal skin tone is determined by the melanin present within your body. If the amount of melanin is high, then you will have a darker skin tone. A popular method to measure the melanin content in the human body is the Fitzpatrick scale. This classifies skin as per colour constitution and the extent of exposure to sunlight.

While the scale starts from I and ends in VI, the Indian skin tone falls between the Type III to VI range. When compared with the skin of people from various parts of the world, Indian skin is considered thicker [1]. Hence, it is more susceptible to tanning when compared with Caucasian skin type. However, it is less susceptible to sunburn and redness.

Why Do Indians Mostly Have A Wheatish Skin Tone?

A high percentage of Indian population has a wheatish skin complexion due to two primary factors: evolution and genetics [2]. The genetic makeup of an individual plays a key factor in determining their skin tone. If any one parent has a wheatish skin complexion, the chances are higher that their progeny will also have the same skin complexion.

Any exposure to sunlight also plays an important role in determining your skin tone. Various studies have indicated that those who live near the equator have comparatively darker skin tone than those individuals who live far away from the equator.

Difference Between Wheatish, Dusky & Fair Skin

1. Melanin Content

The difference between wheatish, dusky and fair skin is primarily determined by a difference in the melanin content. Thus while a higher melanin content defines a darker skin tone, a lower melanin content defines a lighter skin tone.

2. Skin Tone And Shade

Skin tones are usually categorized into three types – fair, wheatish and dusky complexions. Fair complexion is known as the lightest shade of skin tone, followed by wheatish complexion and lastly, dusky complexion. Dusky skin complexion is relatively darker than wheatish, and can be described as a shade of ashen or light brown.

As wheatish and dusky skin tones are both neither too fair nor dark, differentiating between the two can be difficult. They are almost similar in appearance. Interestingly, many makeup and skin experts believe that these complexions allow you to hide blemishes and flaws on your skin more easily, when compared with individuals who have a fair complexion.

Makeup Tips For Wheatish Complexion

If you are blessed with a wheatish complexion or Indian skin tone, then you don’t have to worry about using too much makeup, as your skin tone has a natural glow and clear appearance. Here are few simple and useful makeup tips suitable for your skin complexion:

1. Always Use A Water-Based Foundation

If you have a wheatish skin complexion, your skin will be naturally oily and soft. An oily skin type is also more common for those living in a humid climate Makeup experts recommend a water-based foundation for Indian skin type, as a cream-based foundation, can lead to greasy skin.

2. Apply Warm Tones & Shades

Your skin will look natural and beautiful with subtle gold tints, so always choose warm shades. You may use brown, golden, or nude shades for eye shadows, as they help to open-up your eyes. For eye liners, choose golden or brown shades, as they beautifully outline your eyes. Additionally, you may use green and blue for dramatic eye makeup.

3. Use A Good Concealer For Hiding Dark Spots

If you have pigmentation or dark spots on your face, then try and cover them with a good concealer to make your skin look even and flawless. To ensure proper coverage, always select a concealer that is one or two shades darker than your natural skin complexion.

4. Fill Your Lips With Warm Tints

The best lipstick and gloss shades for wheatish skin complexion are maroon, wine, and nudes.

5. Avoid Overdoing Blush

Remember to apply blush sparingly on your face, as overdoing it will spoil your natural beauty.

Ayurvedic Ways To Make Wheatish Skin Glow

As per ancient Ayurvedic excerpts and texts, skin development in the foetus is assigned to ‘paka’ of rakta dhatu. The base of ‘varna utpatti’ (formation of skin complexion) is primarily assigned to agni mahabhuta. Pitta dosha is responsible for skin complexion, as it is the primary seat of agni.

One of the primary functions of pitta dosha is ‘prabha’, which is defined as the preservation of skin complexion. Additionally, bhrajaka pitta, situated in the skin, emanates the natural glow of the skin complexion, which is expressed via varna. Therefore, ayurvedic herbs and medicines which help in regulating the pitta dosha, rakta by intervening through their prabhava, vipaka or rasa are commonly known as varnya [3].

The varnya medicines and herbs effectively manage and balance the pitta dosha. In the ancient Ayurvedic scriptures, this entire process is called Avabhasini. These ayurvedic herbs have phytochemicals in their structure, that regulate the various skin functionalities and provide essential nutrients required for glowing, healthy skin.

Additionally, the ayurvedic herbs from varnya are Shita Virya (cooling property), Kashaya, Tikt and Madhura Rasa (astringent, bitter and sweet in taste respectively). These properties make them the perfect choice for balancing an aggravated pitta dosha as well as purifying the blood. Therefore, these classes of herbs act as natural complexion enhancers and skin toning agents.

According to the ancient and vast Ayurvedic literature, around 200 minerals and herbs have been identified, which enhance and maintain the natural beauty and glow of your skin. Some herbs and minerals which have been evaluated for brightening skin from eladi varna prasadanagana, lodhradu varnya gana, and varnya mahakashaya are popularly used by many.

These ayurvedic skin formulation include:

• Kanakarista
• Kumkumadi taila
• Candandi taila
• Nimbadi curna
• Haridra khanda [4]

In Ayurveda, the varnya herbs and minerals popularly used for enhancing the skin complexion are:

1. Sveta Candana

Botanical name: Santalum album

Renowned as a symbol of life and energy, it is commonly used in ayurvedic skincare and cosmetic formulations. It is also considered suitable for different skin types. Being a rich source of sesquiterpenoid alcohols, sandalwood oil is a primary ingredient in many skin brightening formulations.

2. Madhuyashti

Botanical name: Glycyrrhiza glabra

The roots of Madhuyashti or licorice offer a host of skin benefits and properties including antioxidant, antimicrobial, antiaging, photosensitivity, anti-acne, emollient, brightening and depigmenting [5]. The glycyrrhizic acid in it helps control the melanin secretion in your skin and minimizes dark pigmentation, making your skin fairer and glowing.

• You can consider using a decoction of licorice root as a natural sunscreen against tan and sunburn.
• You can use a skin pack by mixing licorice tea, fresh turmeric and crushed cucumber to treat sunburn and tan.

3. Manjistha

Botanical name: Rubia cordifolia

It is an excellent ayurvedic herb which is primarily used to lighten dark spots and even out your skin complexion. The ancient ayurvedic texts enunciate its qualities as rakta shodhak (purifying blood), rakta prasadaka and varnya.

4. Lodhra

Botanical name: Symplocos racemosa

Renowned for its soothing and cleansing properties, this ayurvedic herb has been commonly used to treat different skin issues since ages [6]. A chemical component called salireposides, which is a primary building block of this herb, is known to have anti-acne property. Due to the activity of tyrosinase inhibition, lodhra is popularly used as a mild herb to resolve various skin issues.

5. Kustha

Botanical name: Saussurea lappa.

The roots of kustha plants are known to treat and resolve different skin issues such as erysipelas and leprosy, as well as to enhance the natural skin complexion. Due to its tyrosine inhibition property, kustha is also used as a skin brightening ingredient.

6. Padmaka

Botanical name: Prunus cerasoides

The powdered extract of Padmaka, is applied in a paste form to enhance the skin complexion. Due to the presence of six essential minerals such as copper, zinc and iron, in different concentrations, this herb is commonly used to resolve and improve skin complexion. By fighting acne-causing bacteria, it also helps clear the skin and retain its natural moisture.

7. Nagkesar

Botanical name: Mesua ferrea

This ayurvedic herb is renowned for its antioxidant, antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties. It improves the skin complexion and leaves a glowing skin with regular usage. The oil extracted from the stamen of its flowers, is an effective antibacterial ingredient. This makes it a commonly used ingredient in many ayurvedic skincare formulations.

8. Vetiver

Botanical name: Chrysopogon zizanioides

This popular ayurvedic skin care herb is also known as Khus or Usheer. The oil extracted from this plant is an excellent emollient which nourishes and rejuvenates dry skin. One of the amazing benefits of this ayurvedic herb is its potent ability to minimize pigmentation and dark spots on the skin, making the skin blemish-free and even-toned.

9. Kesar

Botanical name: Crocus sativus

As per Ayurvedic texts, kesar or saffron is an excellent skin care ingredient which improves the skin complexion. With skin improvement and antipruritic properties, Kesar is known to have around 150 carotenoid molecules including lycopene, zeaxanthin, safranal and riboflavin. All these help in improving and maintaining the skin complexion.

10. Haridra

Botanical name: Curcuma longa

Commonly known as turmeric, Haridra offers a host of potential skin benefits such as anti-irritant, astringent, antioxidant, anti aging, anti-wrinkle, photosensitivity and moisturizing properties. Curcumin and various other curcuminoids form the primary group of phytochemicals of haridra.

It has been greatly used in ayurvedic skincare rituals since centuries due to its numerous benefits. The topical application of hardira directly carries the phytochemical to the skin tissue. It is known to inhibit melanogenesis by regulating tyrosine and its subclass of proteins. Therefore, it is proven to enhance and brighten the skin complexion.

Things To Be Avoided By Wheatish Skin Tone

If you have wheatish skin tone, then try and abide by few know-hows to look effortlessly beautiful and elegant at all times. These tips and tricks include:

A. Avoid wearing a skin foundation which is a shade lighter than your natural skin tone: Using a foundation which is a shade lighter than your natural skin tone, will make your face appear powdery, uneven and patchy. Remember that the colour of your skin doesn’t define your beauty. However, a healthy, glowing and radiant skin effortlessly makes you naturally beautiful. Choose to flaunt a beautiful, healthy skin.

B. Avoid wearing blushes in light tints: When you apply bright and light-coloured tints on your face, they glaringly stand out and make you look artificial. Use a warm tinted blush, which will accentuate your natural features, and not cover your skin tone.

C. Avoid using bright lipstick shades: Try and avoid applying bright tints such as orange, pink, red and similar tints on your lips.

D. Avoid wearing silver-based highlighters and eye shadows: The cool and bright tints that you must avoid include pink, silver, and light purple. Also, neon-based eyeliners are a complete no-no. Stick to a warm palette of gold, coppers, or browns. These warm tints beautifully complement a wheatish skin complexion.

E. Never forget to apply makeup on your neck: To look naturally beautiful and flaunt an even skin tone, always remember to apply makeup both on your face and neck. The tints and hues must be the same for both.

Colours & Clothes Suitable For Wheatish Skin Complexion

1. Most colours and shades suit the medium or wheatish skin tone perfectly. The best approach would be to choose tints and hues that are a shade darker or brighter than the middle scale.

2. Wheatish skin complexion, which tans easily but doesn’t have sunburns, is complemented with warm colours when compared with those who have ‘cool’ skin complexion or fair skin.

3. Muted warm colours such as pastel tints of soft pink, sky blue and white beautifully enhance your skins’ yellow undertones.

4. Sharp tints such as cobalt, tangerine and fuchsia exhibit your facial features greatly.

5. The primary range of colours work wonderfully with wheatish to medium brown skin complexions.

6. Always remember to select pale beige rather than bright sand when you’re thinking of light neutrals.

7. Similarly, select a bright tint of purple (like magenta) instead of mauve.

8. As white beautifully complements olive skin complexion, think about a few tonal dressing choices such as a crisp, white linen shirt with an asymmetrical black skirt, which highlights your skin tone.

9. Various hues of violet, pink, white, and green can be experimented with a wheatish skin tone.

10. Turquoise blue and mustard are two definitive shades which you must consider trying in your makeup and wardrobe.

11. Also, a warm hue of orange red will bring out the glow and beauty of your complexion.

12. Remember to avoid wearing dark pink, icy silver, and harsh and bright blue. Also bid goodbye to neons as they don’t flatter your skin tone. Always select shades that are rich and warm.

Skin Care Tips For Wheatish Complexion

Your skin is daily exposed to various harmful factors which can cause an imbalance in your overall skin health. Environmental factors such as extreme cold and heat, humidity, pollution and UV exposure adversely affect your skin in the long run. Similarly, PCOS can aggravate sebum production and acne.

Various drying and harsh chemicals found in cosmetics and soaps, and the exposure to soft and hard water may adversely affect your skin health. To ensure that your good skin days are here forever, follow these three simple tips:

1. Sunscreen is your life saviour

Application of a good sunscreen lotion or cream is an imperative step in any skincare routine. Additionally, it is equally important to use physical protection against the harsh sunlight such as wide-brimmed hats, scarves and umbrellas when you go outdoors. Always remember to apply sunscreen on your face, arms, neck and other areas which are exposed to sunlight.

2. Use the right makeup and skincare products for beautiful skin

Always use makeup and skincare products which are formulated especially for your skin type, whether it is sensitive, acne-prone, dry, oily, or normal. Using natural, ayurvedic and herbal skincare formulations will immensely benefit your skin in the long-term.

3. Follow a healthy diet for a healthy skin

Try and follow a healthy diet rich with green leafy vegetables, fresh seasonal fruits, fish, eggs, nuts, and other nutritional foods. Antioxidants, vitamins and essential minerals from food also help you conquer skin issues like uneven skin tone and pigmentation.

4. Exercise allows your skin to breathe

Along with a healthy diet, incorporate physical activity such as yoga, walking or any other exercise routine to flaunt a naturally beautiful, glowing and healthy skin.

The Last Word

If you’re blessed with a wheatish skin complexion, then you must be thankful as you don’t have to worry about hiding any imperfections, blemishes and dark spots on your face. Instead of wearing makeup to hide your beautiful complexion and using chemical-based skin brightening creams, try and switch to the ancient and holistic skincare rituals and formulations offered by Ayurveda.

The natural and safe ayurvedic herbal formulations are not only gentle on your skin, but also improves and enhances your skin’s natural glow, beauty and radiance. By following a healthy skincare routine, exercising regularly, and adopting a good diet, you will experience a significant improvement in your overall health, including your skin.

Know Your Dosha Now